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Quick and Easy ARF Landing Gear Repair

inverted pass2  no where to go

It happens all a time and we think, shop-worn alighting rigging from alighting “Off Field” is substantially a singular many common correct indispensable someday during a RC model’s lifespan. We recently were exam drifting a new 30cc Ultimate Biplane from Aeroworks and an Engine Out on a downwind gave us a good box of Landing Gear Grown!

tall grass   IMG_8389

Test Pilot and MAN writer Aaron Ham was doing an inverted pass when a craft went “Dead Stick” streamer downwind and too low for a protected 180 turn. So he staid a craft into a high weed during a finish of a runway with a shop-worn column and badly “Tweaked” alighting rigging for his trouble.

Here’s some tips to make this all too common repair, it can be finished on several other ARF models with shaft on alighting gear.


The Damage isn’t terrible though to do a correct correct we have to initial check a craft and mislay all a shop-worn parts.


Unbolt a rigging and use a tray or vessel to keep all a hardware and screws together so we don’t mislay anything or have it get underneath your craft to means hangar rash!


I always like to use a froth work mountain like a ones from Robart Mfg.


Of march given a propeller is also busted, mislay a cowling and check a engine, firewall and engine mount.


Once a rigging and engine cowling is removed, we have to mislay a covering. Use a Covering Heat Gun set on high to feverishness a covering. It will over feverishness fast and start to lift adult from a wood. Peal it divided and when we get to a unimpaired tools of a sides, use a pointy hobby blade to make purify cuts in a covering so we can make true correct seals.


If we have any fuel dots or drain/vent fittings, simply mislay a fuel lines and mislay them and a surrounding sheeting.


Clean off any glue and we can reuse a fittings


Remove all a shop-worn sheeting with a pointy hobby knife.


As we mislay a shop-worn wood, be certain to check a middle structure and make certain that there are no other shop-worn tools deeper in a fuselage and that all a glue joints are sound. Here we see a aluminum support angle that ties a alighting rigging to a middle structure.


Remove a rest of a shop-worn sheeting from a correct area. we find a razor craft works good for stealing burst and separate sections of timber from a underlying structure.


Remove a shop-worn alighting rigging connection image and set aside.


Finish cleaning adult a underlying structures and silt a edges well-spoken with a sanding bar. This will concede a new balsa sheeting to make a clever bond.


To say a correct shaft spacing, shaft a shop-worn tools of a alighting rigging image behind into place and glue them together. This gives we an accurate template for creation a deputy plate. After a glue dries, mislay a aged plate.


Place a aged image over some 1/8 in. Aircraft class plywood and snippet a outline. Accurately send a outer bolt hole locations as well.


Cut a new image out with a rope saw afterwards use a belt sander to well-spoken out a cuts to a pencil guidelines.


Sand a ends to a correct length and angle to compare a fuselage sides and afterwards cavalcade out a shaft holes on possibly finish of a new plywood plate.



Test fit a new image and easily shaft it into place to make certain a bolts align with a threaded tools of a underlying steel angle supports. If there is a light misalignment, we can cavalcade a somewhat incomparable hole fto yield clearance.


Bolt a alighting rigging in place as uncover above and use a straightedge hang to make certain a rigging are true and retard to a fuselage centerline. Once they are scrupulously aligned, tie a dual outdoor bolts and afterwards cavalcade out a middle shaft holes. Then snippet a bottom of a gear.


Here’s a final shaft holes and rigging beam lines.


Now use a new image and snippet out a lite manipulate spacer to form a recesses a alighting rigging will fit into after a correct is complete. You also have to supplement a tiny additional length to a spacer square so it overlaps a fuselage sides.


Cut divided a core territory a rigging will fit into and use a sanding hang to purify adult a cutouts to fit a gear.


Carefully glue a spacer on tip of a plywood image aligning a openings with a discipline we formerly drew on a plate. Red Baron Adhesives Medium CA and accelerator is being used here. Make certain not to get any glue inside a recess area.


Use a cutaway partial of a lite manipulate spacer and glue to a underside of a image centered on a middle connection bolts holes. Drill out a holes and afterwards implement blind nuts for a middle alighting rigging bolts. For this craft a bolts are 6-32 cap-head appurtenance screws so 6-32 blind nuts from a hobby emporium are being used. we used a cosmetic face dead-blow produce to set a blind nuts into place, and afterwards we use middle CA to secure a wings of a blind nuts. be certain not to get any glue in a middle threads.


Using a outdoor bolts secure a new rigging image to a fuselage, requesting glue to all a mating surfaces. Red Baron Adhesives’ CA make glorious holds to steel and wood, though use usually a tiny volume so it does not get into a threaded areas. Properly glued into place, a tip of a lite manipulate spacer should be flush with a tip of a surrounding structures.


Cut a new balsa sheeting to distance (I used 3/32 in. sheeting), and glue it into place, Leave a tiny space between a edges of a alighting rigging bases and a corner of a sheeting. A good approach to make neat gue joints is to request a glue to a indication and afterwards mist a accelerator to a underside of a sheeting. Then place a sheeting into place and reason for several seconds until a adhesives cures. After a vast sections are glued in place, cut a core sheeting square to distance and glue it in place between a alighting rigging bases to form a finished  recessed areas.


Remove a alighting rigging and this is what we are left with. Scrap balsa sheeting will be used to fill a gaps.


Cut a throw to length and glue into place with skinny CA glue.


Sand a throw flush with a fuselage side and afterwards silt a corners turn with a sanding block. Use 100 courage sandpaper afterwards finish silt with 220 courage until all is good and smooth.


Apply some indication filler ( we like Hobbylite filler from Hobbico,) and fill any gaps or defects in a glue seams and let dry.



Use some 220 courage sandpaper and well-spoken out a filler. The model’s correct area is now prepared to be recovered.


Before reinstalling a alighting gear, now is a good time to purify them adult and to check for any repairs or lax screws wanting to be taken caring of. It is eaier now than when they are reattached to a model.


Clean off any sawdust and purify a fuselage covering with some well-off to scrupulously degrease a aspect afterwards iron on some new covering element that matches a model’s finish. Start from a core of a correct area and work external pulling out a wrinkles as we go. Take your time and make all your seams true and neat. Now shaft a alighting rigging behind into place. If your hardware is focussed or damaged, reinstate with new bolts and washers.


A neat and discerning approach to make a holes for a fueling wise and drain/vent, is to use a sensory square of coronet tube. Bevel a middle corner with a pointy hobby blade and whet a outdoor corner with excellent sandpaper. Press a tube knife opposite a indication and pull resolutely with a rambling suit to cut a hole. Side a tube knife hole to compare your fittings.


Reattach a fuel lines to a equipment and use skinny CA glue to secure a equipment within a new holes.


Add a tiny lock-tite thread locking devalue to a alighting rigging connection bolts and tie them firmly into place. That’s it! Reinstall your engine cowling, hang a new, scrupulously offset column behind on your model, reinstall a spinner and you’re prepared for your subsequent takeoff!

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